For me, this book itself was a long journey. My Russian barber gave me his copy, so despite it not being my genre I gave it a try. I’m glad I read it, but I found myself unsympathetic to the author. He seemed self-absorbed and emotionally detached from the animals and people around him. When his girlfriend, who accompanied him for months at the start of the journey, told him from Germany that she needed to have an operation for a brain tumor he did not stop his travels to go to her. Yet, many times during this journey he did leave his dog and horses for weeks or months at a time to return to the world. So much for an epic journey and an uninterrupted quest.
Cope’s interaction with the nature of the steppe was by far the best part of the book. His inclusion of the history of the land and the peoples was also well done, as he scattered it in along the way. Despite his fascination with Genghis Khan and other nomadic warriors, he did not fail to mention the millions of people slaughtered by them. I guess their expert horsemanship and the civilization they brought with them balanced things out.
Many families who welcomed this strange traveler into their homes must have been left out of the story. Some were not, but the emphasis was given to the individuals who were consumed by vodka and alcoholism. It paints a depressing picture.
It was not until the end of the journey and of the book that Cope includes an epilogue, where he briefly tells what happened to the animals and people he met. I suspect that my poor impression of him comes more from a defect in his writing than in his character. ( )

A wonderful read. While the story teller often seemed to hid or mask his true thoughts and motives from the reader it was never the less a fact filled adventure that had me learning of, and longing for such an adventure, and such a past and place as he paints in this book. ( )

Epic journey over the breadth of Asia, in the horse tracks of Genghis Khan. ( )

Every once in a while, a unique work of nonfiction appears with little pretension that nevertheless delivers unexpected superlatives in every quarter. Such a surprising and extraordinary book is On the Trail of Genghis Khan: An Epic Journey Through the Land of the Nomads, by Tim Cope. Ostensibly an installment to the travel and adventure genre, Cope’s book offers so much more, including studies in history, geopolitics, culture, geography and lifestyle, all tightly integrated into a narrative that never loses pace with the journey itself.
In 2004, when he was just twenty-five years old, a young Australian adventurer named Tim Cope began an epic three year mostly solo expedition on horseback from Mongolia to Hungary – some 10,000 kilometers (about 6,200 miles) – roughly retracing the routes followed by the steppe nomads of the great conqueror Genghis Khan (1162-1227 CE). Remarkably, his only previous attempt at riding a horse left him with a broken arm as a child, but even as a young man Cope had a résumé of sorts as an adventurer, having ridden a recumbent bicycle more than 6000 miles from Moscow to Beijing just a few years previous to this far more ambitious excursion through long stretches of often isolated, largely primitive and a somewhat punishing environment with only three horses and a dog as his companions. Yet, it turns out that far more dangerous than the extreme cold and prowling wolves were the uncertain human encounters with the occasional alcoholic predatory rogue who looked at Cope’s horses and saw only dollar (or ruble) signs!
Still, much of the author’s experiences with people along the way were overwhelmingly positive. There is a long tradition of hospitality along the vast multi-national steppe highway that welcomes travelers with widely open arms, and Cope recounts the warm embrace of numerous yurts whose inhabitants had few possessions but did not hesitate to shelter the author and his animals. This hospitality would often also extend to more populated areas such as villages, although small camps and lone outposts were far more typical of Cope’s journey, which encompassed a wide swath of mostly remote territory, typically skirting cities and towns, in a part of the world that is little known to most of us. Cope’s route includes portions of Mongolia, Kazakhstan, Russia, Crimea (then part of Ukraine, recently annexed by Russia), Ukraine and Hungary.
Steppe nomads are perhaps the most consequential element of global history that are typically overlooked. Yet, the historical narrative has been writ large by their numerous collisions with settled agrarian civilizations over several thousand years. The root word for horse in Indo-European – the language family that includes English, Hindi, French and some forty percent of the other tongues spoken in the world today – can be traced back to the Proto Indo-European (PIE) spoken by the steppe nomads that according to David Anthony’s magnificent The Horse, the Wheel and Language first domesticated the horse six thousand years ago and later in conquest introduced the animal and its unique war machine, the chariot, to Europe. The Huns that brought Attila to the gates of Rome were steppe nomads. So too originally were the Turks that until a century ago controlled all of the Middle East and significant portions of Eastern Europe. And so too were the Mongols, who created a global empire and even conquered China. These are only the most famous nomads; there were scores of others. Horses were the key to their dominance in the frosty northern Eurasian steppe corridor of vast grasslands that stretched for thousands of miles, where the techniques of equestrian warfare were perfected that made them virtually invincible in battle against the settled civilizations they targeted until the advent of effective artillery in the late middle ages. The steppes also served as a highway of trade, most notably the famous Silk Road.
I came to On the Trail of Genghis Khan in a rather circuitous manner, because I wanted to learn more about steppe nomads. I am such a nerd that instead of blasting Led Zeppelin in the car I typically listen to audio college courses on CD, and this time around I was deeply invested in The Barbarian Empires of the Steppes, by noted historian and Tulane University Professor Kenneth Harl. I like to supplement these courses with suitable books that match the theme. I happened to see Cope’s unlikely title in a bookstore display and picked it up on impulse. In the realm of history, there is the romance of history (how a people or a culture want to remember the past) and there is actual history (what the past was really like). To Cope’s great credit, both of these are inherent components of his fine book. The romantic notion is intrinsic in the title, but the author is surprised to discover that the romance of the freedom of a steppe nomad on horseback is still remembered a millennium afterwards by the fierce atrocities and hundreds of thousands of dead that were left in the wake their conquest. But the Mongols were, as noted, only one set of steppe nomads. There were many others, and their disparate descendants on the Eurasian steppes have variously abandoned or clung to remnants of their respective heritages, with many compromises and trade-offs in between. There are some great stories. Cope frequently traveled solo with his three horses and his dog, but carried a laptop and a satellite phone. This incongruity was trumped by his encounter with a remote modern nomad camp which was an echo of centuries past yet nevertheless included a generator, satellite dish and tiny television set. His hosts somewhat regretted their hospitality when the author unintentionally drained their battery charging his own equipment and their little TV went dark.
The best part of Cope’s book is that it never devolves into the introspective heartfelt diary of the author’s inner journey characteristic of many books like this. Not that it lacks of the personal: we feel Tim’s pain as he struggles with whether to abandon his animals to fly to Europe to be at his girlfriend’s side when she needs surgery (and he lets the reader decide whether he made the right choice), and many chapters later when his father’s unexpected death sends him home to Australia in a spiral of grief for several months. But Cope makes sure that this book is not about him, but about the country he traverses, about the animals that are his closest companions, about the cultures he encounters, about the families that embrace him and those who do not. His greatest asset can be said to be his ability to act as an observer who is not so detached that he cannot empathize, yet not so invested that he loses perspective. His other great strength is his craft as a writer as he describes both the natural and the human landscape with an eye for detail and an outstanding narrative skill. The book also benefits from truly terrific maps that always places the reader on the author’s path in spots on the geography most of us have never heard of, plus a glossary of words and phrases in currency in the various languages and cultures, and even a biographical listing of historic figures cited in the course of the work. On the Trail of Genghis Khan is one of the finest books I have read in any genre, and I would urge everyone to take the time to read it.

My review of "On the Trail of Genghis Khan: An Epic Journey Through the Land of the Nomads," by Tim Cope is live on my book blog https://regarp.com/2016/05/08/review-of-on-the-trail-of-genghis-khan-an-epic-jou... ( )

This book is many things. The document of an unquenchable wanderlust. An exercise in ethnography. A bearing of witness to a fading way of life. Mostly though, it's really about the author dealing with his emotional drives and finding a way to turn them into a vocation; not everyone can become a professional adventurer, as Cope's current status as a Fellow of the Royal Geographic Society attests to.

While I found the portions dealing with the start of the journey (Mongolia) and the end (Hungary) to be the most interesting (did I mention I'm in part of Hungarian descent?) the biggest chunk of Cope's journey was his time spent looking at the current status of the nomad peoples of the former Soviet Union after being hammered by Stalinism; the portion dealing with the Tartars of Crimea being especially relevant.

With all these positives why do I not give this book a little higher rating? A big part of the reason is me, in that at the current moment I was wasn't in the mood for a picaresque tale of wandering but pressed on to get the book done. This also meant that I wasn't as patient as I should be with the author's personal journey of insight. However, I would certainly pay notice to any future work by Cope, and would now like to see the companion documentary. ( )

On the Trail of Genghis Khan (2013) is a travel memoir by Australian Tim Cope about a 3.5 year journey on horseback from Mongolia, across the Eurasian Steppe to the Danube river, in Hungary. This vast ocean of grassland has long held fascination and fear among Europeans as the home of the great warrior steppe tribes. Cope seeks to recreate what it was like to travel this distance on horseback, to find remnants of the traditional nomadic steppe people, to provide some historical context of 19th and 20th century, and to document what is happening today in countries like Mongolia and Kazakhstan. There is also geography description, adventure, incident and people met along the way. I followed along with Google Earth and now have a mental map of large parts of central Asia I knew nothing about before. For Cope, it became more than a trip but a way of life as he struggled through every conceivable setback from weather, to bad people to sickness and border bureaucracy. This is a long book that never felt rushed, there is a sense of having completed something epic in the end. It's a unique journey that anyone interested in historical nomadic life, or central Asia, will find interesting. My sense of the nomadic steppe people, how they lived, has been greatly expanded and even though this isn't a science book it will likely have anthropological value. Curiously while one might think this is mainly a book about horses the real star character (other than the steppe itself) is Cope's dog, Tegon, who seems to have 10 lives, if you like books about dogs it is that too. And some love interests. Overall a generous and fascinating travel/history. I hope to read more by Cope and try to find a copy of the 3 hour documentary (only sold on Australia).

A video: National Geographic (30m) ( )

Weighed up, I have to say I've found this a bit of a scarifying read. We know that Genghis Khan was the last, if the most spectacular, assertion of steppe nomads over settled, and that ever since his age the nomads have been on the losing side. But this book brings it home to you. We know the 20th century was more horrific than the 13th... and then there are the centuries in between. The best of this book, I feel, was the sense of tragic absurdity we reached at about the centre of the steppe – like a Camus novel, even though I've forgotten them. He does meet with random acts of kindness from strangers and with great characters or eccentrics, that cheer you up on the journey. The adventure sounds romantic, and at times it is. But it's a bleak prospect he travels through.

My spirits were flagging in the Ukraine when we came upon the Hutsuls, who had kept safe an island of sanity in the Carpathian Mountains. We end on a high note in Hungary with much interest in the past, but then the afterword warns of the effect of massive new mines in the last real bastion itself, Mongolia. I think any review has to mention the drunkenness, which is a scourge right the way from Mongolia to Hungary.

On the sunny side. He achieves his goal, to learn to look through the eyes of a nomad. Late in his trip he starts to talk about the settled's attitude to roads and fences, and he can start to take down our own settled assumptions. One evening spent on the old circuit with a nomad family in Kazakhstan sticks in the head – along with other pockets of traditional life he is happy to stumble on. Then there is the awful travesty of a hunt by rifle out a car window... google 'Kazakh eagle hunters' for pictures of the old-style version he describes. It's an upsetting book, though Tim, with his decision to “trust in people's good side”, can see that good side even in testing circumstances, and that counts for a lot. An old man who sells him a horse acts very rudely, but then you learn what the horse means to him.

For Genghis in the 13th century, it's hard to sort history from legend. One thing that gets slurred over, frequently, and does here – although mostly in his notes – is the evolution of the Mongol idea of world-conquest. It seems to have set in with success; its first (non-legendary) expression dates from after Genghis Khan's lifetime. Genghis may have seen its early growth; certainly he didn't leave Mongolia with world-conquest already in his sights. There's enough madness and madmen in here without that...

I wouldn't have missed this book, of course, but it ain't a joyride. ( )